
One of the most outstanding historic properties in the care of the National Trust, Ham House, is celebrating its 400th anniversary. Heralded as the most complete survival of the Restoration period in Britain, its sumptuous rooms display exotic and rare collections that offer a unique glimpse into the fashions and court lifestyle
of 17th-century England. Woven into the history of this great house are tales of ambition, greed and scandal to rival the richness of its interiors, which are regarded by many to be haunted.
Built in 1610, Ham House was witness to one of the greatest periods of political upheaval in British history – the English Civil War. Its owner at the time, the dashing William Murray, 1st Earl of Dysart, filled the house with artworks and elegant furnishings, but as a friend of King Charles I, he was to die in exile in 1655 and the
house passed into the grasping hands of his daughter Elizabeth. ‘Restless in her ambition, profuse in her expense, and of a most ravenous covetousness’, Elizabeth was well educated and intelligent, but, as Bishop Burnet noted at the time, ‘violent in everything she set about, a violent friend and a much more violent enemy…she would have stuck at nothing by which she might compass her ends.’
Skilfully playing both sides after the Civil War, Elizabeth established good relations with Oliver Cromwell, sparking
rumours of an affair. She was also a member of the Sealed Knot society, which worked to restore Charles II to the throne, and for which she was later handsomely rewarded. Elizabeth flaunted her new wealth openly and Ham House soon became a centre of court social life. Life was further enhanced upon the death of her first husband, Sir Lionel Tollemache, and her marriage to the ambitious and power-thirsty John Maitland, Duke of Lauderdale
and Secretary of State for Scotland. Plans were now drawn up to double the size of Ham House and transform it into a showcase befitting one of the most powerful players in Charles II’s ministry. Features included two grand ground floor apartments, one of the earliest bathrooms, and a magnificent library. The Duchess kept meticulous records, so we know that joiner Henry Harlow was paid up to thirty-five shillings a yard to install some of the earliest sash windows, designed to blend in cunningly with the existing Jacobean ones. Complex decorative carving, plasterwork and gilding were also executed throughout the house. Extravagant purchases of furniture and embroidery from the Continent followed. Existing 17th-century inventories, one written by Elizabeth herself, reveal her liking for exotic orientalstyle lacquered and japanned furniture, but she was also very fond of elaborate trimmings, and in two months alone she bought 152 tassels made of gold and silver thread. Perhaps the most remarkable survival however, is a room created by the Duchess’s father – the Green Closet. Of the greatest rarity, the walls of this intimate room remain richly hung with a collection of cabinet pictures and miniatures that is without parallel in England.
This huge expenditure could not last forever and, after her husband’s death, the Duchess was forced to take out mortgages, even selling her jewellery and court dresses. Crippled by gout and
embittered by years of legal wrangling with the Duke’s relatives, she died in 1698. Ham House stayed in the family’s possession, but by the 19th-century it had fallen into a serious state of neglect. Rescued by the 9th Earl, who saved much of its precious 17th-century contents, the house passed into the hands of the National Trust in 1948.
Described in previous centuries as a ‘sleeping beauty’, this incredible house and its collections remain intact today. To celebrate 400 years of survival, staff and volunteers are highlighting their favourite features in the house and inviting visitors to nominate their own ‘Favourite Piece of Ham’. Victoria Bradley, House and Collections Manager, reveals a few from her list …
“Nothing evokes Ham’s sumptuous style so much as the ivory cabinet, designed as a show-piece and entirely veneered in ivory, which is both shocking and impressive. The Duchess’s original silk damask wall hangings for the Queen’s Antechamber, still in existence, are equally stunning, the panels embroidered with metal thread to catch the light from the candles. These would have been impressive purchases in the 17th-century as few could
afford this level of luxury. I also love the windows that date from the original building in 1610, featuring beautiful, elaborate metal catches, handles and antique glass.”
Food was also important to a household of this size, and visitors can enjoy such delights as ‘real mince pie’ and ‘spiced apple pudding’, created from authentic 17th-century recipes and using fresh ingredients from the kitchen garden. An historic chocolate cake recipe, unique to the house and with a ghostly tale attached, is also being recreated. The story, involving the sighting in the gardens of a WWI captain on the day he died in France, is in keeping with the timeless atmosphere that pervades the house to this day, with many visitors reporting ghostly
sightings, in particular of the Duchess and her little dog.
Younger visitors to Ham House can explore the mansion using a new house trail that introduces them to its exciting and exotic past. Hands-on activities reveal more about the dangers of sea-faring in the 17th-century, and the lives of Ham’s many servants. Outside, acres of gardens and a maze-like Wilderness area are waiting to be explored with the help of self-guided garden trails and Explorer Packs. House open 12 – 4pm and garden, shop and restaurant 11am – 5pm, excluding Thurs/Fri. Ham House, Ham Street, Ham, Richmond upon Thames TW10 7RS, Tel: 020 8940 1950.
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